Kooyong Meres Pinot Noir 2023

The Kooyong Meres Pinot Noir 2023 is the ethereal ballerina of the estate, sourced from a fully exposed, north-facing 0.7-hectare single block. Planted in 1997, the Meres block is defined by lighter sandy topsoil over a heavy clay subsoil, ensuring extremely low vigour and miniature, intensely concentrated bunches. Fully exposed to the elements, this block consistently produces the most fragrant, red-fruited, and delicate Pinot Noir in the Kooyong portfolio.

Benefiting from the cool start and steady, mild autumn of the 2023 vintage, the Meres fruit achieved perfect aromatic ripeness while retaining electric natural acidity. Hand-harvested and destemmed with minimal whole-bunch inclusion, fermentation occurred spontaneously with ambient yeasts. The wine was handled gently with minimal pump-overs before maturing in French oak barriques for 12 months. It was bottled without fining or filtration to capture its fragile, perfumed essence.

Tasting Note

Impossibly refined and intricately detailed. Aromatics of sweet/sour cherry, crushed strawberries, raspberry leaf, and dried flowers leap from the glass, underpinned by a whisper of whole-bunch spice and forest floor. The palate is light-footed and graceful, characterized by bright red berries, a touch of cherry pip bitterness, and a teasing, dry finish. Silky, delicate tannins—likened to biting into rose petals—frame a precise line of acidity that gives the wine exceptional clarity and energy.

Small-Batch Detail

• Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria

• Vineyard: Meres Block (0.7ha, north-facing, planted 1997)

• Clonal Composition: Low-vigour old vine clones

• Soil: Sand over heavy clay

• Fermentation: Wild yeast, minimal intervention

• Maturation: 12 months in French oak (15% new)

• Alcohol: 13%

• Bottling: Unfined, unfiltered

• Cellaring: 2025–2033

Expert Reviews

⭐ 95 Points – Huon Hooke, The Real Review
“Light-ish red-purple colour with sweet/sour cherry and briar aromas, smoky charcuterie touches, dried flowers and herbs too, the whole amalgam showing gorgeous complexity. Medium bodied and graceful across the tongue, a very elegant pinot with silky tannins and oodles of charm.”

⭐ 18.5/20 Points – Matthew Jukes
“Impossibly refined, fairy-light, delicate, and rhubarb and red cherry-soaked. Wistful, balletic, dry and teasing.”

⭐ 17/20 Points – Tamlyn Currin (JancisRobinson.com)
“Morello cherries, masses of strawberries, lavender, and raspberry-leaf tea. Tannins are delicate, like licking thyme and rose petals, with a little sour tang and ping.”

Fine Pinot Note

If Ferrous is the power, Meres is the absolute poetry. The 2023 Meres is hauntingly fragrant, offering unmatched delicacy and grace. It is a stunning achievement in a cooler vintage, showcasing perfectly pitched red fruits and silky, gossamer tannins. Stunning alongside seared scallops, roast quail, or light charcuterie.