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When speaking of Pinot Noir, it's impossible to ignore Burgundy. And when we speak of Burgundy, many have heard of the famous decree issued by the Duke, but few truly understand why he made that impactful decision. Through this article, uncover the story behind this historic order.

The Crisis That Shaped Pinot Noir’s Future

In 1395, France was facing more than just economic hardship. In the wake of the Black Death, a labour crisis had pushed many growers to plant Gamay—a grape that was hardy, fast-growing, and high-yielding. It kept people fed and employed, but the wine it produced was rustic, acidic, and widely considered inferior.

The Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold (Philippe le Hardi), saw this as a threat not only to wine quality but also to Burgundy’s growing reputation across Europe. He called Gamay "disloyal" and its wine harmful to human health. Pinot Noir, on the other hand, was delicate, demanding, and distinctly for the upper-class. It thrived in Burgundy’s limestone soils and cooler climate, and delivered wines that were elegant, age-worthy, and unmistakably Burgundian.

The 1395 Decree: A Historic Stand for Quality and Control

Determined to protect Burgundy’s viticultural identity, the Duke issued a sweeping decree on July 31, 1395, outlawing Gamay from his duchy. He demanded that all Gamay vines be uprooted within five months, making Pinot Noir the official red grape of Burgundy (Rod Phillips, The World of Fine Wine).

This act wasn’t just about grape preference. It was deeply rooted in the Duke’s desire to control the economic future of Burgundy. Pinot Noir, though lower-yielding, fetched far higher prices and was favoured by nobility across Europe. By purging the vineyards of Gamay, which was associated with cheap, rustic wine consumed primarily by peasants, Philippe the Bold aimed to solidify Burgundy’s position as a premium wine-producing region.

Politically, the decree also reinforced noble authority over agricultural practices at a time when local farmers were gaining more influence due to labour shortages after the Black Death. By outlawing Gamay—a grape popular among working-class growers—Philippe reasserted centralized control and aligned viticulture with elite tastes. The law not only protected Burgundy’s international trade reputation but also reaffirmed the social hierarchy through wine production.It was an early example of protecting terroir and quality—an idea that still underpins wine appellations and labeling laws around the world today. And it laid the foundation for Pinot Noir’s centuries-long reign as one of the world’s most revered grape varieties.

Gamay Finds a New Home, Pinot Noir Claims the Crown

While Gamay found its future in Beaujolais to the south, Pinot Noir began to define what Burgundy meant to wine lovers. Over the centuries, this decision elevated Pinot Noir to a position of cultural and oenological significance. It became the benchmark for elegance, finesse, and sense of place.

A Legacy That Lives On

Today, the legacy of that bold decree continues to influence winegrowing philosophy. Pinot Noir remains one of the most sought-after varieties for collectors and connoisseurs, particularly those who appreciate its subtlety and ability to express terroir. From Burgundy to Australia and New Zealand, winemakers continue to honour the standards set centuries ago.

If you’re curious to experience what makes Pinot Noir so special, we invite you to explore wines shaped by history and crafted with care.

Sources:

Rod Phillips, By decree: The Duke of Burgundy’s 14th-century AOC, The World of Fine Wine

Rosalind K. Berlow, The "Disloyal" Grape: The Agrarian Crisis of Late Fourteenth-Century Burgundy, Agricultural History Journal

In Search of Pinot Noir, pp. 001–055